AVIARY BIRDS (suitable for Beginners)       

Parrot-Like (Hook beaked)
(The ones below would be fine in a Mixed Aviary but poss  not at Breeding time - as they may get territorial and attack each other).
Usually they remain amicable as long as you don't introduce any Nesting sites/Nest Boxes into their Aviary.
All "Parrot-like" Birds breed in a wooden Nest box with a "concave" for the base.

OTHER BIRDS                                   ^Top

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How to sex your Birds

• Some birds you can tell their sex by just looking at them i.e. Cocks and hens look different.
  • Hens are often a duller colour and the Cockbirds brighter and bolder colour
  • One exception is the Eclectus where the Cock is a solid green colour but the Hen is a vibrant Blue and Red - you wouldn't think they were the same species if you didn't know.
  • The Hen Eclectus is also more dominant than the cockbird -  the same applies to Ring necks.
     
• Some by listening to and observing their behaviour  eg: Canaries and Rosa Bourkes
  • the cocks may sing or warble, strut, dance or just sit "tall" on the perch
  • Hens would be vocally more quiet or emit single sounds like a chirp.
  • Hens are often more aggressive i.e. they are practising for when they will have to protect their nests
    • Hens are the ones when you catch them BITE and mean it
    • Whereas Cocks can still Bite but not with quite the same intensity
  • If you see a row of birds together on a perch - the hens often sit a bit lower on a more horizontal plane
  • The Cockbirds, in general, tend to sit up higher (more erect in their posture)
     
• Some you can sex by the colours eg: Eclectus
• Some birds the Cocks are one colour and the hens are totally different
  • In the Eclectus the Hen is much the brighter colour being a deep, vibrant
    Red and Blue -  see pic >
  • The cock bird is a plain Green colour
     
• Other birds just differ in the intensity of colour -i.e. Cockatiels
  • the hens are duller and the cockbirds brighter (esp. round the head area in the cockatiel)
  • Hens in Cockatiels usually have horizontal bars down the underside of their tails
  • This is absent in the cocks.
  • In Lutinos and albinos it's a little more difficult to see these bars.
     
• Some you need to know what colour the parents were to sex the youngsters
  • i.e. Red Rumps + Mutation Bourkes (i.e. lutinos & rubinos)
• the hens take on the colours of the father and the young cockbirds take on the colour of the mother.
• (This is called "sex-linked" sexing)

• Some by the size and shape of their head & beak. eg: Rosellas, Kakis
  • The Cocks have a bigger, broader head and a bigger broader beak (a bit like a "Roman nose")
  • The hens are significantly smaller in the head and the beak
  • It's very obvious when you have a cock and hen sat together
  • Poss. not quite so easy, sometimes if you just have the one bird and nothing to compare to.
• MOST OF THESE POINTS ARE ONLY OBVIOUS ONCE THE BIRDS HAVE GONE THRU THEIR FIRST JUVENILE MOULT BETWEEN 4 - 6 MONTHS - PRIOR TO THAT THEY OFTEN ALL LOOK LIKE LITTLE "HENS"!

BIRD PSYCHOLOGY (What makes your Bird "Tick")

• Birds like to be up as high as possible - this is what makes them feel dominant!
  • This is why you should NEVER allow your bird on your shoulder and def. NOT ON YOUR HEAD!!
  • Esp. if your bird is already showing signs of dominance.
  • It follows that if you keep your bird low down in a cage or put something or another cage with a bird
    in on top of it's cage (hens in battery cages are a typical example) then the birds underneath end up
    very depressed!!
     
• On the same theme: when putting in perches and Nest-boxes - birds will vi for the highest position
  • At breeding time there will be squabbles, fights and even savage injuries if you don't keep your
    nest-boxes similar (preferably same) size, design but def. all at the same height.
     
• Birds don't really trust Nest-boxes with pop-holes that have a much wider hole than their bodies would
  comfortably fit, as this, in the wild would allow predators access to the Nest area.
   
• If your bird has reached a point where you are having problems with it "screaming", shouting or being generally
  noisy to try and gain your attention.
  • The worst thing you can do is shout at it to tell it to be quiet (or similar choice phrases)
  • As you shouting at the bird is giving it the attention it seeks.
  • All be it negative attention - it is still attention
    • So shouting at the bird just escalates the problem and the bird will shout/scream all the louder to get more response from you.
       
  • The best thing you can do is either QUIETLY cover the cage and walk out of the room
  • Make no eye-contact and don't speak to the bird at all.
  • This then is not giving the bird the attention (good or bad) that it seeks/craves.
     
• It does however, mean that when you uncover the bird you must give it good attention
• You must also make sure that you bird gets enough exercise (out of the cage)
• Attention from you and others in the family etc.
• Another pet bird in the same room (in a different cage, of course)
• T.V. (cartoon or music channel is enjoyed usually) or radio left on if you are not in the room
  • volume not too invasive i.e. not too high
• Just imagine yourself in a solitary cell with no views, no company or attention - you would soon go mad too!!

AVIAN VET                                                                      ^Top

• There are very few General Vets, who have trained with birds as well as other Exotics, within 100 mile radius of Cumbria. 
• We are very lucky to have Avian Vet: Vicky Weeks-Temple from the Millcroft Vets Cumbria, Practice to help with Advice when necessary.
• Birds have a very different internal structure, respiratory and digestive system to mammals,
• Not every General Vet has the specific knowledge needed to diagnose and treat Avian (Bird) illness and
  other Avian problems.
• So, as soon as you purchase your Pet/Aviary birds, make it your business to seek out your nearest specially-trained
   AVIAN VET and register with them for your birds.
• Then keep their contact details to hand for emergencies.
• You can use one Vet for your Birds and a different one for your cat/dog/horses etc.,
  • this is a quite acceptable practice.
  • I personally have 3 different Vets - as I like to have Vets trained in the specific field for the different species
    of animals I own, to give them the best attention possible if they are ill/injured.

RINGING CHICKS

• Varies from breed to breed as to the age they can be Close-rung.
• If you get these identity rings fitted at the correct age as the chick grows then the rings cannot be removed unless they are cut off - so are a good way of permanent identity for your birds.
• General rule of thumb is when the chicks eyes are ⅟2 - 3/4  they are of the approx age to ring.
• If you ring too early - the ring can fall off and be lost in the nest substrate
• If you leave it too late then it poss. won't fit over the ball of the foot and you may damage the chick
  when trying to put it on.
• When ringing you hold the 3 forward pointing toes in a straight line and put thru the ring then slide the ring over the ball of the foot and GENTLY pull the back toe thru the ring
  • You can use the blunt end of a matchstick if it's difficult - but be gentle as it's easy to damage the foot.
  • Make sure the ring moves round the leg freely.
• Some parent birds really object to the rings on their chicks - I knew of an African Grey hen that tried to get the ring off her chick and dislocated it's leg in doing so.
• In these cases (with the bigger birds) if you know the parents do object - it would be safer to have the chicks microchipped when they get older.
   
• Some parents object to their chicks being handled and may attack the chicks to try and remove the rings (be aware of this).
  • If you have this problem - you can use plastic split-rings, which come in many and varied colours.
  • These can be put on at any age - so you don't have to disturb the chicks until they are just about ready to fledge.
  • Canaries are often a problem in this direction
    • Once you have handled/ removed a canary chick to put a closed-ring on, it often becomes a
       "spring-loaded Furbie"  and just keeps bouncing back out of the nest.
    • this can be a problem if the weather is cold and the chicks very young. (which they will be if close-ringing)!
    • It's often very difficult to get them to go back into the nest and stay there!
    • So if you don't have to close-ring your canaries, then wait until they have fledged out of the nest then put coloured split rings on them for identification.
  • These are normally used on the opposite leg, if used with a closed ring,  for identification purposes.
  • Esp. if you have birds that all "look the same" and you need to identify them or which parents they come from.
  • Split rings can be put on at any age. (Adults + chicks)
     
• The whole point of ringing, esp. close-ringing is to provide identification and show the age of the bird.
  • Esp. useful if your bird is stolen or escapes.

• The Ring colour changes every year - so you can tell at a glance what year your bird was hatched by the colour
  of its ring (see colours below) . . . .
• You also have the initials of the Breeder, the year and a number - so each ring may be the same colour but will have different consecutive numbers.
• I tend to put the rings on opp. legs as I ring my chicks - you can do it your own way - this is what works for me).
  • i.e. first chick - Left leg :  2nd chick Right leg  : 3rd chick Left leg etc.,

  Black was 2007     Dark Blue = 2008      Violet = 2009       Orange = 2010

• If you have an idea of the sex of your chicks
  • (Budgies are a good example of this - they are easy to sex in the nest by their ceres [fleshy bits above their beaks] -
    • baby hen chicks are pale fawn and cocks pale blue)
    • [also hen chicks "Bite" with intent and cock-birds may give you a nip - but nothing serious)!!
  • you can put all the Hens' rings on their Left Legs and the Cock-birds on their Right legs
    • (this is a recognised way of ringing - When birds are surgically sexed or DNA'd).
       
• Always make sure you have the correct size of ring for the bird you are ringing.
  • Click Here for Ring-sizing Lists + Ring Manufacturers details.
• Also, make sure you order your rings in good time - general rule of thumb for ringing is when the chicks' eyes are approx 1/2 open (this theory is a guide only).
• Take into consideration that everyone else will be ordering theirs in Spring-time.
   

MICRO CHIPPING is also a very good way of identifying your (bigger) bird if found after being lost/stolen.

• The Microchip is the size of a grain of rice
• The Avian Vet will inject it into the Birds' breast muscle via a broad hypodermic needle.
• I had an A. Grey youngster done and I just held it without any anaesthetic/gas etc.,
  • Some Vets do like to use a bit of Anaesthetic Gas or a local anaesthetic to freeze the area.
• It was probably a bit uncomfortable for the bird cos it did fidget a bit
• but I wouldn't say it had been painful for the bird and no after effects.
• The Vet then runs a "Scanner" over the site and checks the No. that comes up on the Scanner tallies against
  the No. the Microchip should be from it's packet.
• Then the paperwork is filled out and the bird is registered with the relevant Microchip company.
• So now if your bird escapes or is stolen and is found - it can be immediately traced back to you, it's owner.
• www.tracer-microchips.co.uk

                                                                                     ^Top

GENERAL TIPS & HINTS + BITS of ADVICE

• FEED & WATER DISHES - make sure they are kept clean and free from seed husks
  • (which are what is left when the bird breaks open a seed).
  • Sometimes the seed dishes "look full" but upon closer inspection, are just full of seed husks and the bird goes hungry
• WATER must be changed every day - more if you have a bird that "dunks" its food in its water, as some tend to do.
  • Conures and Kakis are guilty of this amongst many others.
• The container must also be brushed out as it can end up slimy (esp. in sunny weather, which encourages the growth of green algae)   even tho the water is put in clean.
• Seed must be de-husked by shaking the seed pot and blowing the Lighter, husks off the top - make sure the debris and rubbish that accumulates in the bottom of the dish is also removed regularly.
• I HAVE A THEORY - IF I WOULDN'T EAT AND DRINK OUT OF THE DISHES THEN THEY ARE UNACCEPTABLE !

This section is still to be expanded. . . .

• PERCHES
  • Pros & cons
  • Branches / types / sizes  - all sizes, widths. 
  • Safe branches off non-toxic trees from a clean source. 
    • Fruit tree branches are ideal.
  •  Ideal width is where the birds' foot just goes 1/2 way round the perch. 
  • Narrower than that is fine as long as you have them mixed with other perches with different widths, textures and sizes.  Too narrow and it doesn't give enough support but are o.k. to have an odd one in the Aviary.
  • Birds nails should not be over long as they will prevent the bird from perching comfortably and safely.
  • Position / height - the higher the better from the birds' point of view but you need lots of different heights
    and angles incl. just off vertical - to mimic tree branches in the wild.   Do not clutter the Aviary with branches/perches tho - give the bird plenty of uncluttered space to fly.
  • Not dowel/bamboo - too smooth so provide poor grip and also could poss. predispose Bumblefoot.
  • Coat hangers - esp those sold for hanging trousers over. (for the smaller finch/canary) as long as you have some rougher, wider perches available too.
  • Shelves + small panel pin nails for fruit / veg

   

• FEED
  • mix for specific birds
  • No bird should be allowed too many Sunflower seeds - too high in oil and as addictive as sweets are to children!!
  • Monkey nuts can harbour Aspergillosis - only use "Human grade" if you do use them.
  • Millet sprays - most parrot-like and parakeets love these and relish as a treat.  Can be fattening if overfed.
  • Types of seed pros & cons
  • Hemp - helps at breeding time
  • High and low proteins
    • (different Breeds need different levels of Protein & Fat content to their Foodstuff)!
  • SEED Winnower / blowing husks off seeds
     

FRUIT & VEG & NUTS etc.,
 

• Poisonous foods - Avocado / rhubarb / Chocolate / alcohol / bulb plants i.e. daffs, tulips & hyacinths
• Poisonous Fumes: TEFLON / VAPONA / PLUG-IN AIR FRESHENERS + any aerosols inc. spray polish and anti-persp. etc
   

EGG FOOD - ideal high protein food used to help bring your birds into breeding condition and also as a soft-food provided for your parent birds to feed to their youngsters in the nest.

• Purchase from Bird Sales Days
• Pet Shops
• Bird Seed suppliers
• BRANDS: E.M.P / Sluis / Witte Mollen (Rob Harvey's) - smells nice and stays moist - birds like it.
   

FEED CONTAINERS

• Plastic Hang on
• Swing Feeders
• Metal clip on
• Hen-type feeders - these hang from roof or sit on Floor
• Tube feeders - only really useful for smaller seeds mixes as those with bigger seeds will not flow well.
• box feeders (as per cockatiel) - can get a build-up of stale seed if not cleaned out regularly (x1 per week)
• and this can encourage the infestation of mites + mould - very unhealthy to your birds.

BATHS

• Most birds love to bathe.
• It is a necessary, healthy activity to help keep their feathers in pristine, healthy condition
• Fresh, clean water should be provided in the Bath every day
• In sunny weather the Baths often end up with Green algae-type of growth - make sure you clean them out at least
  x1 per week to prevent bacteria multiplying in the water - which can cause digestive problems in your birds.

TYPES OF BATH you can use

• Clip-on Plastic
• Hang on mesh wire
• dog-dish on floor
• Cat litter tray on floor for bigger birds
• Why essential to the quality of the birds' feathers
   

WATER CONTAINERS

• Tube
• Dog dish
• Plastic on mesh
• Swing Feeder dishes
• Metal dishes on mesh

I am still building and expanding the topics on this page.  It's a "work in progress"   So, if you have any questions or queries etc., about bird-keeping please feel free to get in touch.  Use the Advertising Form or Free Advice Form
- see "Pet Birds Page" for links.
 

Cuttlefish/ iodine nibbles

• Why you use
• How you fix to cage/mesh - special clips / clothes pegs / metal wire clamps / put small hole thru the cuttlefish and attach to mesh with small zip-tie.
   

Mineralised Grit / oyster shell Grit

• Why it's needed & for which birds
   

WHEN to BREED

• How to recognise if your birds are Breeding Fit
• What to feed in the run-up to the Breeding season
• How to pair up
   

NEST BOXES / Nest Pans

• When to put in / up
• where to put
• and why
• Nesting material

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